A New State Standard for Russian Cuisine is Being Developed in Russia: Focus on Borscht – Which Ingredients are Allowed in the Classic Recipe and How the Standard will Cement the Traditions of National Gastronomy
Russian authorities are launching a large-scale project aimed at standardizing national cuisine. In the coming weeks, the first draft of a state standard (GOST) for Russian cuisine will be released, a document intended to officially codify a list of traditional dishes, their names, and permissible ingredients. It is expected that the GOST will cover at least 250 items – from well-known dishes like shchi and borscht to rare ancient recipes. This initiative is seen not only as a cultural endeavor but also as an economic resource, as the state hopes that a unified standard will help integrate Russian cuisine into the tourism sector and enhance its role in the economy.
Overview of the Initiative
The idea of developing a standard for Russian cuisine was announced by the Ministry of Industry and Trade (Minpromtorg) in the spring of 2025. A special working group has been established under Minpromtorg, comprising culinary historians, renowned restaurateurs, and representatives from industry associations. The experts have already formed a preliminary list of dishes and terms that will form the basis of the new GOST titled “Products and Services in Public Catering. Russian Cuisine. Terms and General Provisions.” The development of the standard is estimated to take about 6 to 8 months.
The first results of the group's work are expected to be presented as early as October 1, 2025. The public will get a glimpse of part of the new gastronomic canon at the All-Russian Festival of Russian Cuisine scheduled for November 4 (Unity Day). This festival aims to showcase approximately 30 to 40 dishes from the forthcoming list to demonstrate the richness and diversity of the Russian culinary tradition.
Principles of Standard Development
The working group has approached the development process thoroughly, trying to take into account both historical perspectives and modern gastronomic realities. The standard being formed is not just a collection of recipes but a comprehensive overview of key aspects of national cuisine. It includes guidelines and descriptions across several areas:
- Historical and Regional Traditions: exploration of culinary heritage, analysis of the diversity of regional schools, consideration of seasonal eating, and traditional cooking and preservation techniques.
- Unified Terminology: establishment of correct names for dishes and processes. Redundant concepts are unified – for instance, a single designation will be chosen for terms like “kholodets” and “studeny” (the same dish) or “kvashed” and “fermented” (describing the salting process).
- Key Characteristics of Dishes: definition of basic ingredients, cooking methods, and presentation forms for each recipe, as well as the purpose of the dish (everyday, festive, lean, etc.). This will help document which ingredients are necessary and permissible for a dish to be considered authentic.
- Origin of Ingredients: consideration of geography and local characteristics – use of local ingredients and the influence of regional contexts on recipes and flavor profiles of dishes.
Classic and Forgotten Dishes
The list of dishes falling under the new standard encompasses both recognizable classics of home cooking and rare delicacies from past centuries. According to project participants, the list includes no fewer than 250 items. Below are some examples:
- Basic Dishes: everyday recipes familiar to everyone – shchi, borscht, ukha, rassolnik, various cereals, blini, and pies.
- Festive and Ritual Dishes: dishes traditionally served during holidays – for example, stuffed goose or duck, kulebyaka, and other pies associated with rituals and festivities.
- Regional Specialties: local recipes and dishes characteristic of specific regions. These include, for instance, the Pomor fish casserole "pomakukha," ancient fish soup called kalya with pickles, as well as beverages like spicy sweet brew.
- Delicacies and Unique Ingredients: items that reflect gastronomic heritage – from kurnik (yeast pie with meat filling) and beef tripe (traditional offal dish) to now-exotic components like viziga (dried cartilage from sturgeon, previously used in pie fillings).
Thus, the standard covers the full spectrum – from simple peasant meals to complex recipes from noble cuisine, reflecting both everyday food and the culinary treasures of Russian culture.
Traditions on Standard: What is Real Borscht
One of the GOST's tasks will be to formalize the concept of what constitutes a "real Russian dish" – defining the criteria by which borscht remains borscht, and kulebyaka stays kulebyaka. This is not about strict regulations for chefs but rather about describing benchmark recipes and names. For example, it will be established that classic borscht is unthinkable without beetroot: referring to a vegetable soup without beetroot as “borscht” would be considered incorrect.
Similarly, the standard aims to organize the variety of names – from close synonyms to outdated terms. Thus, the popular dish shashlik was historically referred to as “verched meat.” The new GOST will determine whether it is permissible to use this historical form of the name today. Such unification of terminology and requirements for dish composition will help both restaurateurs and customers to have a mutual understanding of what each menu item entails.
The Return of Russian Cuisine
The standardization of traditional recipes aims to restore a prominent place for Russian cuisine in the domestic food industry. In recent decades, restaurants in the country have predominantly offered international dishes or universal menus lacking a distinct national specialization. According to estimates by Minpromtorg, over 99% of public catering establishments in Russia currently position themselves as offering cuisine from other countries or mixed formats. In other words, specialized restaurants of Russian cuisine are practically non-existent in the country. Over the last three decades, cuisines from other nations have largely displaced traditional Russian dishes from the daily diet of Russians.
The new standard is designed to provide clear guidelines for restaurateurs and a better understanding for consumers of what falls under the definition of “Russian cuisine.” The project's authors envision that GOST will systematize culinary heritage and elevate the prestige of local gastronomy, stimulating the creation of specialized Russian restaurants and the updating of menus in existing establishments.
Gastronomic Tourism and the Economy
The official codification of national dishes is also seen as a tool for “gastronomic diplomacy” – promoting the country through its cuisine. Russia is not the first to attempt to formalize its cuisine according to international standards: similar national gastronomic norms exist for Italian, French, and Korean cuisines, among others. The GOST being developed takes ISO principles into account, which should make the criteria for Russian cuisine clear and appealing to external audiences. There are already successful global examples: the Thai government supported the standardization and promotion of Thai cuisine, resulting in the opening of thousands of Thai restaurants worldwide and a surge of tourist interest in national dishes that became a significant part of the economy.
In Russia, it is also hoped that the recognizable brand of traditional cuisine will attract more tourists – both foreign and domestic – who wish to try "real" borscht, pies, and other specialties in their homeland. Regional gastronomic festivals, thematic routes, and local product brands can become a new driver for the tourism industry, especially if they are given a “by GOST” status as a mark of quality and authenticity.
Prospects of the Standard
The first draft of the standard for Russian cuisine is just the beginning of the journey. The document still needs to undergo discussions in the professional community and earn the trust of the industry. It is too early to definitively answer whether the GOST will become a living tool. The state sets the framework and supports the initiative, but the success largely depends on whether restaurateurs will voluntarily adhere to the new guidelines.
Skeptics point out that without real demand, the standard risks remaining a paper formality, collecting dust on a shelf. However, if the project can inspire businesses and society, then over time, a unified gastronomic standard could evolve into a practical resource. The upcoming months will reveal whether the new initiative will garner sufficient support and achieve its ambitious goals.
